English version for USA
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Hip Notes:
Fissler makes two models of this pressure cooker – the one made for the American market is distinguished by having the letters “US” engraved in the metal near the lip of the lid, to the right of where the handle connects to the lid. The Vitaquick is spring valve pressure cooker with two settings: low pressure (one ring displays) and high pressure (two rings display). Maximum operating pressure (second ring) is 8.7 psi or 60kpa.
When operating the pressure cooker, turn it with the handle to the left, so excess pressure is released towards the back of the cook top and not towards the cook. Pressure is released in two directions – turn cooker with handle of the cooker pointing toward the cook before releasing pressure to avoid being in the line of steam. Store with up-turned lid over the base with the detached handle in the lid.
Readers have reported steam leaking out of the handle when in use. If this is the case, tighten the handle screw under the lid before each use as it tends to get loose during cooking, cleaning and storage.
If tightening the handle does not resolve the problem, one reader who purchased two US Vitaquick sets (from different sources) was able to isolate the leaky steam problem in both to a faulty Eurovalve. The replacement sent from Fissler had a different-colored ball in the center (see photo) and resolved the problem.
Manufacturer Website: Fissler
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There is a lot of discussion of this Pressure Cooker on Amazon, especially after “Cook’s Illustrate” ranked it number one. One of the main questions on Amazon about this pressure cooker is this: “The standard cooking pressure in cookbooks is 15psi. Why is the high pressure setting listed in the manual for this pot only 9psi (60kpa)?”
Perhaps I can help in clearing up some confusion. In November 2014, I purchased from Williams-Sonoma the 8.5 liter US version of the Fissler Vitaquick pressure cooker, based in large part on the reviews and high recommendation in Cook’s Illustrated.
I was miffed to see in the manual for the new product that its “high” setting corresponded to a pressure of 60 kPa, which is 8.7 PSI. (Hip Pressure Cooking states this as well at the top of this page.) The US standard for “high” settings on pressure cookers is 15 PSI. Indeed, the manual said that, as a safety feature, the control valve would automatically depressurize at 100 kPa (14.5 PSI). So, it’s safety system would engage before reaching the temperature/pressure required of most recipes. As I say, I was miffed.
So, I called the Fissler customer service number. While they said that the high setting actually corresponds to 15 PSI, they could not/would not address the contradictory information in the manual. The rep seemed a bit wishy-washy about the answer to my question, actually.
I was not sure who to believe–the manual, or the customer service rep from Fissler.. So, I wrote to Williams-Sonoma and described the issue, quoted from the manual directly, etc. I asked for them to get a written response from Fissler.
On 26 November 2014, Williams-Sonoma provided me with the response they had received from Fissler: “Per your request, the manual has a typo and is being corrected-we noticed this as well. High setting for Underwriter’s Laboratory-approved Fissler pressure cookers are all 15 PSI. The operating PSI and temperature have been tested by 3rd party companies, including Cook’s Illustrated. Thank you for pointing this out to us. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused.”
So, the US models (stamped with “US” on the lid) do produce 15 psi at the high setting.
I have made a number of recipes with the pressure cooker on High setting, and the high setting does produce appropriate final results at the times specified in recipes.
By the way, I bought my unit from Williams-Sonoma because, if you buy it from a NON-authorized US reseller, then the warranty is not valid. I know that a number of buyers of the unit on Amazon had trouble getting warranty service because the two Amazon sellers were not authorized US reseller for Fissler. The unit cost $20 more at Williams-Sonoma, but at least I know the warranty will be honored AND they found out the answer to this question for me! (BTW, I posted a somewhat shorter version of this Amazon, so potential buyers of this product there will learn about the 15 psi issue, and the warranty coverage issue.
Great information. I am waiting on my 8.5 qt Fissler Vitaquick cooker now as they are on back order until at least April 2015. :( I have used pressure canners in the past and I am very excited to get into pressure cooking as a way to use less energy and time for food preparation. I sincerely hope this cooker is worth the price. I bought it on the reviews of Cook’s Ilustrated. As YL stated, make sure you ask if the seller is an authorized retailer or you may be SOL if you have warranty issues.
Could anyone please tell me if the capacity (e.g. 6 qt, 8 qt. etc.) of the Fissler Vitaquick is stamped on the bottom?
Mine do. It’s written very small in liters before the words “Stainless Steel” – For example one says “6.0L Stainless Steel” while the other one says “8.0L Stainless Steel.”
Liters are only slightly larger than quarts and are used interchangeably with quarts for pressure cooker sizes.
That is the size of the base, not the cooking capacity.
Ciao,
L
I just purchased one of these, my valve leaks, under the handle.
I expected it to, up until the time that it gets sealed, it did exactly that, the leak under the handle stopped, it past the first ring rise, then before the second ring gets full exposed, aka full pressure, leaking steam, spurts again, doing a water test.
And I truly hate the manual printed printed in light, thin font and small. For a reference manual it truly sucks. Manufacturers, please stop trying to save money here. I’ll would pay the extra two dollars for a decent size manual, use bold, fat fonts. My guess is they’re trying to save space.
This is one pressure cooker I would like to see a video on the maintenance, especially the pop up indicator. That difficult to read manual is no help. So amazing manufacturers are too cheap to even to do this.
Is my understand correct, your advice is to remove the handle for storage each time? What about oiling the gasket I see no mention of that, the Fagor states to do this.
My Fagor dial got majorly scratched up storing the lid upside down. I plan on putting a hand towel arcoss this one to keep down scratching.
I must say the initial test I did on this thing, it is well controlled, heat wise, solid, it took very little heat to keep pressurized, very stable. This sucker is heavy, nice bottom heat disk, square to the edge.
That dual exhaust depressurization makes you wonder what the hell were they thinking of. It’s impossible to aim this thing without hitting something, it’s a huge steam stream. I do not want to spray the back electronic console of our stove.
I lost faith in Consumer Reports along time ago, America’s Test Kitchen, and Cooks Illustrated I’m starting to take them with a grain of salt. I actually think I prefer the Fagor, it is simpler to clean, just pull the spring regulator, wash everything, run a pipe cleaner through the regulator vent hole, let it dry, put back the regulator. I like that if it’s on low pressure if it goes over pressure you get a pop hissing sound, this isn’t happening with this model.
Yeah when you have a kitchen the size of a airplane runway, I’m talking to you Cook’s Country, I guess you don’t worry which way your steam sprays. It’s just amazing the details that are left out.
Two water test, things don’t seem right. I want to make sure I understand how to use it.
I’m waiting on a new Eurovalve from Fissler, very good customer service. My Eurovalve is not white, it’s a blackish color marble.
Since I have not actually seen this work well, can someone tell me what happens when you go pass the second ring? That is, slightly over high pressure?
I assume you get a steam, hiss warning. Where is this located?
Is this at the control white ring area, at the far end of the pot, or is it under the handle/Eurovalve?
As I say I get a steam leak at the handle/Eurovalve after the first ring, and before the second ring shows it bottom,
Just to be clear, I get a leak building pressure, at the handle, it seals, this is normal, goes on to low pressure, the first ring, no sound, no hissing, no steam, no problem, but before the second ring fully appears, the leak at the handle returns. I have to get back heat more to see just barely see a white second ring.
It’s like that Eurovalve is popping too early?
Thanks